It's not often that one can find total satisfaction in a bottle for just under $11. Jonesy, an Aussie "Port" (more on the quotes later), is one such.

What better to warm the cockles on a 20-degree, blustery New York City night than an 18% alcoholer from Down Under? The Land of Oz has a very special relationship with all things sticky and strong, and its "Ports" (again, more later) are no exception.

I was put on to this lovely cheapie by Cliff at Acker Merrall & Condit, that longstanding, law firm-sounding merchant on West 72nd Street (conveniently located about two blocks from home for me). Not only did he down-sell me -- I was looking at something a good bit more pricey when he came up to me with his recommendation -- but he sold me on it as well. This, despite my reflexive reluctance to do anything with anything at this price point other than reduce it in a sauté pan.

What you get for all of $10.99 is a mouthful of fig, milk chocolate and ripe berries, along with the occasional wisp of orange peel and graphite. Not bad. At all.

As for what's in it, I can't be sure. That is, other than sulfites, because those are at least listed on the label. My guess is that there is shiraz (syrah to the rest of us) and probably some other red-skinned variety or two or three. No matter. Good is as good does, and this is the best under-$15 wine of any ilk I've had in many a year.

Now for the " " thing. It's called a "Port," and that's fine, because it's a free country (for the most part), but the purists among us would argue that "Port" can only come from the Douro Valley in Portugal. OK, now that that's out of the way, I'll just lift, swirl, sniff, sip, and continue to be amazed at how good this wine is, "  " or no " ".

Jonesy Rare Aged Port ($10.99) @ Acker Merrall & Condit, 160 W.72nd Street (between Amsterdam & Columbus, much closer to Amsterdam); 1/2/3 to 72nd Street

DISCLAIMER: I don't tout my wines on the blog -- that's what the website and Facebook are for, after all -- so you can assume that my agenda is only to provide some useful information to anyone who bothers to read it. Salute.